Samwel J. Silas living on the streets to championing Afro-Contemporary Dance

 By Caroline Uliwa

Samwel Silas performing, photo by Jimmy Mathias

When we’re stripped away from the space we call home, the routines that shoulder our intimate moments, where we get to enforce our identity. Who are we and indeed how does one find inner peace when society enforces ‘you belong nowhere in the world’. Surprisingly an ability to accept the now is exactly what Samwel Japhet Silas took “I learned to accept the present moment whatever it brings without judgment;”as his most cherished gift from living on the streets for more than 10 years of his childhood & youth.

Samwel now in his early thirties (he can’t pinpoint his exact age), is a professional dancer and a rising star in the contemporary dance field in Tanzania. To date he has performed on various platforms within the country and mostly abroad in South Korea, South Africa, Uganda, Netherlands, Ethiopia, Rwanda, Senegal, Germany & elsewhere.

Samwel dancing on the streets of Tanzania, photo 
 captured in a motion picture by Thobias Minzi

On living on the Streets 

“It was a normal day I was given money to go buy groceries; I remember it was exactly 7,500Tshs. I got on a bus went to Mwanza and never looked back.” Samwel recounts the fateful day he left his uncle’s home in Shinyanga and decided to go and live on his own despite being a child with no money and the streets as his destination. 

Samwel embracing the applause
after his performance, photo by Zefania Ezekiel

On asking him why, he recounts how his mother left him to live with his grandparents since he was a baby back in Mara where he was born. While he was in standard four back at his grandparents home, things started to disappear from the house. Samwel recounts being blamed as the culprit perhaps because he was the youngest and most cumbersome ‘mtundu’ toddler; sadly he would then get heavily punished for deeds he didn’t do. 

His grandparents then moved him to his uncle in Shinyanga, it is fair to say there’s a trauma Samwel faced that formed his resolve to leave home and never look back. For when asked why, his eyes travel to a place exposing a vulnerability of someone grappling for a memory they can’t grasp but know is painful. “The one thing I knew was my decision was final, I don’t know exactly why? But I know I truly wished to leave that environment to go far away never to be found by any of them.”

Samwel since then would tour through the most trying of circumstances various regions of Tanzania, getting to Singida from Mwanza, then Dodoma, back to Shinyanga even to the south of the country like Tabora. With two stints in Dar es Salaam a city that would later change the trajectory of his life for good. 

Last year in Kilimanjaro, Tanzania Samwel
strikes a pose, photo by  Gerald Ochieng

During this time he shares “You may not believe it but I was happy especially as now I had no one to boss me. Yet as the reality of waking up not knowing where my next meal is, when it rains having to figure right then where to sleep while standing. Grappling with being chased times beaten even arrested by the police, I learned to be grateful and adapt to the moment without lamenting ‘why me’. As already I knew I was on the streets and this is no joy ride.”

Photo by JAMES Jean-claude

Samwel recounts his challenges on the streets like having to steal to survive sharing how him and his friends would steal scrap metal, encountering regular chasings and beatings by the ‘maasai’ guards. He also recalls participating in street gambling ‘kamari’ among the less than tasteful things he had to do to survive. At some point a good policeman befriended him in Dar es Salaam giving him transport for him to return to his home in Mara. He recalls using it to go back but when he reached, he could only view the house at night when his family was sleeping. Yet the next day he couldn’t get inside and once again went to Shinyanga resorting to street life until he found his way back to Dar es Salaam.

His Journey with Dance

Already Sam was versed with the charitable deeds of ‘dada’ Nyakwesi Mujaya the executive director of Makini, an NGO that uses art to alleviate the ills encountered by street children in Dar es Salaam. Sam recalls nonchalantly how they were rounded up by Makini and though their agenda of counseling them didn’t really sink in for him. It was the free meals or trips to go swimming at the beach that had him interested. 

When he returned to Dar es Salaam he encountered Makini once more and slowly since 2011, began to participate more fully in their programs. “I like exercising and they gave us plenty of that, we would rehearse at the University of Dar es Salaam FPA campus and then go perform at various platforms like the Goethe Institute, Alliance Francais or Nafasi. I learned various art skills as we got to perform through drama plays, drawing, dancing and so on. We would jump on a bus be sponsored with meals and transport for the day and just show up to perform at these art centers in the city.”

Photo captured in a motion picture by 
Thobias Minzi

It was back in 2013 when Sam got on the bus for such a trip to Nafasi Artspace, only unknown to himself he was at an audition. Turns out a new dance school was establishing and on this day they were auditioning for their first batch of students Muda Africa. Sam ended up qualifying from Makini, he was among the two who got a full Scholarship for this three year dance diploma. In 2014 Samwel was then enrolled formally at Muda Africa and the rest as they say is history.

His stint here would see him training for three years graduating in 2016 after receiving a great education. Where he brushed shoulders with the best in the world like choreographer Nora Chipaumire the renowned Zimbawean USA based artivist. Who would light a fire in Sam that allowed him to see how dance gave his life story a voice.

Samwel recalls the first residency he got through the Muda dance program, arriving outside the country for the first time in Kenya after Nyakweso helped him procure a passport. For three months at the GoDown Artcentre KE under the tutelage of Adam Chienjo. He began to see that his pass time stints with Makini were indeed a chance for him to change his life for the better.

Samwel together with his classmate Tadhi Alawi at Muda, established Nantea Dance Company in 2016. He performs under it times inside a group with Tadhi and or Salum Kabasa. Though mostly he works as a solo artist, participating in workshops & residencies worldwide that have solidified his career to ensure his resume reads like that of an international dance star. Here opportunities to study at renowned institutions like Ecole des Sables in Senegal-among Africa’s great dance schools; have placed him at the forefront of his craft in the country.

Samwel performing outside of Tanzanaia
photo by Platonov Arts Festival

Still the dance profession in Tanzania has many challenges and Samwel advises the government and private sector, to invest more in the craft by providing platforms so as to bust the myths that dance is frivolous. 

“Among the reasons many female dancers give up on this craft is the way family perceives dance particularly for us females. I am happy BASATA now has a union of Dancers association but it’s not enough there can be more pressure applied to employers of dancers. So female dancers don’t always have to dangle themselves as ‘meat’ instead of using dance with its various language tools to entertain or edutain their audience” Pili Maguzo TZ, a female professional dancer with over 15 years experience. Pili was among the mentors in Samwel’s journey including Nyakweso, Rachel Kessy, Ian Mwaisunga, Isack Peter and Aloyce Makonde all of whom he credits graciously. 

Tadhi Alawi (left) and Samwel performing photo by Nicholas Calvin

“This March 20th we’re going to put up a show at the little theatre in Dar called ‘A Moment/Wakati’ featuring me and Samwel. The craft is improving in the country and it’s up to us to elevate the game from our predecessors’ by inviting the public to understand the value of dance.” Tadhi Alawi sheds light on working with Sam on this recent project A Moment/Wakati-Nantea Dance Company and generally the trajectory of this craft if it is to flourish in the country. 

In closing our interview Samwel shared how he is always moved when an audience member after his performance would tell him. Your performance got me to see a different perspective on this issue, or because of your dance now I am going to try this and or I feel more inspired. Indeed the leaps and bounds that Samwel makes while performing are a testament from the bellies of our continent that anything is possible; you can learn more on his website samweljaphet.dancer

This article was first published by the East African newspaper in Jan 2021

A Sister hike into one of the oldest forest in the world- Kazimzumbwi

 By Caroline Uliwa

(written in Nov 2020)

Photo by Bernie Mshana

It was the weekend before elections on an early Saturday morning; I together with twenty six other ladies in Dar es Salaam opted for a hike on the outskirts of the city. Perhaps it was to run from the hype & scandal of election season to be soothed by nature, welcoming a chance to mingle with strangers and sample patriotism more authentic than the one we saw on headlines.

Thankfully the roads were empty as I pressed on the gas to reach mlimani city mall on time. Parking my car at the far end, I negotiate with the guard at a nearby filling station to watch over my vehicle for the day, instead of doing the same at the mall’s parking lot.

I then walk inside the mall to see other ladies waiting, looking ready for a day outdoors with exercising tights, running shoes and the quintessential backpack. Soon the coaster bus we were waiting for pulls up, a little before 7am and we climb on board ready to experience what ‘Pugu Hills Eco Cultural Tourism-PHECT’ had in store for us.

Our destination was pugu kazimzumbwi forest reserve one of the oldest forests in the world, located in southeast Dar es Salaam. For many of us it was our first time to visit the area despite being residents of the city and sure enough we were in for a cultural shock

“I knew I loved nature since I went to boarding school in mountainous Lushoto, Tanga. I established PHECT after finding the job market difficult, I recall holding jobs prior that times just wouldn’t pay me or otherwise offer horrid working conditions. Plus the jobs were all indoors and I am more of a creative outdoorsy person. I wanted to employ other youths, work hands on with society.”-Sairis Lucia Bugeraha founder & coordinator PHECT (BA in Tourism & Cultural Heritage) shares her reason for establishing her company since 2018.

On this Saturday we had signed up for a ‘soul sister hike’ and as I found my seat in the middle of that coaster. I already knew this was going to be a unique experience as in the bus were women of varying backgrounds, a mix you wouldn’t normally find socializing in Tanzania. Think Bohra muslim women clad in Rida dresses, ladies in their late forties next to college students, young and older mothers alike all going for a hike! 

The meal offered by PHECT it was delicious

Conversations at first were synced to clicks one felt familiar with but by the end of the day; there was a vibe of union. It’s not a coincidence the place is called Pugu Hills for it is hi-lly! As we prepared to start the hike hilarious comments escaped lips “Ehe so this is what healthy people do…Shouldn’t we stretch…’Hivi eti' now we do this to relax?” Highlighting the inexperience most of us had with a ‘hike’. Sairis a small built lady with a cheerful attitude wearing appropriate hiking shoes led us on with her assistant Otilia, closing the line. 

The trail begins on the border of the Kazimzimbwi forest with Pugu residential areas, inviting you in with its lush oxygen deposits of green and forest sounds that percussively drown the city’s bustling activities. This forest is among 66 patches of Tanzania’s coastal forests remaining with the natural vegetation of this area in the country and is threatened hence its 'reserve status'. It has over 103 coastal east African native plants including two that are endemic (found nowhere else on the planet); which is the ‘Mpugupugu’ & ‘Mnaki’ trees. It has over eighty small animals including endangered birds like the Sokoke Pipit Anthus, butterflies & other organisms, a bat cave, a huge deposit of kaolin and a native bamboo forest.

Ladies canoeing from this soul sister hike
photo by Bernie Mshana

We soon realized this hike was going to test our fitness levels, as Sairis’s strides were sturdy and vigilant. So immediately thin sweats that would later turn to pools on fabric visibly shone off our skin. Already the structure of the hike had us breaking out of our comfortable clicks to start casual conversations with other members. As our hearts picked up their pace the trail became an effective ice breaker, when it gave us its first challenge.  A steep decline over five meters or so that I had to use both my hands and feet to descend, so I wouldn't topple over. Quickly a ritual developed, as each of us descended others would cheer us on with claps & encouraging words.

We came to a stop amidst this breathtaking bamboo forest inside it was an opening with benches for us to sit on. One of us started envisioning her wedding taking place here and sadly she wasn’t kidding. You'd understand her though as the place is so tranquil with bamboos tall enough to create a cathedral like experience. Soon the group broke in two with the first batch going for an even more challenging hike that would see them reach the ‘Msolo’ peak which is 277m above sea level.

Those who were brave and opted to hike up to Msolo
peak. Photo by Bernie Mshana

I opted for the second group that took a trip to the lake for some quality time with the surroundings. Here we had a chance to sit down by the lake; I even witnessed what looked like a golden Sokote pipit busy creating a nest. Behind me were two participants Violet & Furahini. They were chatting sharing their appreciation at seeing young females outspoken and invested in their own well being, present at this hike. They themselves were giving each other tips on how to stay strong in the workplace as females, with Violet being an architect & Furahini a doctor/medical researcher. They were the older members of the group but they sure didn’t look it, they were good role models to listen to. Soon we heard all about the hike to Msolo peak from the other group, turns out it involved leaning on a rope for support while climbing up, it must have been hectic as all of them were ready to eat a horse. 

The birthday girls including Sairis wearing
black first left

After what seemed like forever and most of us having indulged in smooth canoeing. We were served lunch that was an authentic Swahili meal, with fried chicken, plantains, ‘kachumbari’, beef stew and spicy rice. Turns out it was also Sairis’s birthday on the day (24th Oct) so a cake popped out of nowhere and it was though the group had known each other for years as it was also another member's birthday.

In the bus as we were heading home we learned that among us were entrepreneurs, a caterer/pharmacist, marketing guru’s, employees of Dalberg the global consulting firm, farmers one of who works with the UN Food program, a copy writer, business women & more. As we cut through the traffic getting back to our city’s grind, I couldn’t help but feel hopeful as despite the country’s headlines displaying suppressive actions. Here were citizens choosing to break barriers and hear each other out in a peaceful manner.

Pugu Hills Cultural Eco Tourism also offers other packages including a trip into the Zaramo culture involving local cooking lessons, tradional ngoma dance lessons and other cultural activities. Sairis was happy to share that she’s happy local tourism is on the rise. She is also thankful to efforts from the Board of Tourism under the Ministry of Natural resources & tourism in Tanzania which has supplied her and businesses like hers with extensive support.

Photos not credited were graciously provided by the members cell phones. This article was first published in The East African newspaper with this link on its online publication pugu hike PHECT

Catherine & Hubby Michaels' Rare Editions

By Caroline Anande Uliwa

(written in April 2020)

My favorite suit jacket out of Rare
Editions that I spotted, just look at that
Afro-daladala theme oozing afro-elegance

Small things stand out at this fabric shop in Mwenge, Dar es Salaam, for one it’s clean. Neat rows of corporate fabric are next to lean torso mannequins donning striking suits, shirts & jackets. The décor is elegant but minimal allowing the merchandise to stand out. 

Flipping the suit jacket you spot clean lining, no crooked lines certainly no exposed seams, the outfit is draping the mannequin as a bespoke suit. I am impressed to learn these clothes are all made in Tanzania, so of course appointments are made and a sit down follows with the persons behind this brand called Rare Editions.

On the day of the interview we meet at the second outlet of Rare Editions in Kijitonyama, I was met with the same pristine clean surroundings as their Mwenge outlet with torso mannequins, little shelves with cufflinks ties & the like. Its at this spot that the tailors are hiding in an adjacent room.

When I walked in fumbling to note who is Catherine, I quickly guess it’s the petite lady in a peplum corporate dress. As she sits behind an austere wood desk inviting me to sit across from her, I don’t shake her hand (corona etiquette) but greet her warmly. Her smile quickly sets me at ease and soon am immersed in her world. 

Catherine and her husband 
when they got married and the 
first male bespoke suit of
Rare Editionswas made.

Rare Editions is a partnership between Catherine P Mlowe 33, and her husband Michael Mugabe 40. Catherine is a doctor and Michael a lawyer and both launched it in 2016. Prior to this since 2012 it was Catherine’s own business called K8 designs. “Initially it was a bit tough you know I had just finished med school. I rented a small frame close to home in Tabata, bit by bit I would pay the rent, I recall my neighbors being sellers of local beers” She laughs and continues “But I loved it at times I would finish at midnight then my Dad would come pick me up, so I wouldn’t walk home alone at that hour” 

Catherine’s journey with fashion was cemented in secondary school at Kifungilo Girls Sec, when she took up tailoring in form 3 & 4. Throughout college she would meddle in it until post her studies, when she met seamster Christopher Zacharia and started making whole garments for ladies & gents. 

Standard sewing machine that Rare Editions use. 
Embu nenda kawaungishe waTanzania wetu 
kwani kweli 'nyumbani kumenoga'

When she met her husband she recalls being at a crossroads almost going to leave the fashion business. As she was neck deep in her internship as a doctor which was very demanding, couple this with managing her business with now three tailors. “I wanted to quit, I thought why am I stressing after all I am going to be a doctor. But then when I started dating Mike I would tell him my frustrations, soon I called him my ‘shock absorber’.” Catherine quips with a candid laugh adding “See when I encountered that client who was driving me up the wall. I would ask him ‘please can you handle her’ and he would. He is good like that…you know when you have someone you love beside you telling you ‘you can do it’ it gives you courage.” Catherine affirms. 

Catherine Mlowe left giving a happy
customer Dr Ben his suit custom made
by Rare Editions

Things took a turn for K8 designs when Michael took a chance on his fiancés business and ordered his wedding tux from her establishment. The gist was if the tux wasn’t good they would default to buying one, but K8 designs passed the test and the tux Michael wore including those of his groomsmen were all made by his fiancé's venture.

“I then realized it’s even better if I cater to the male clientele” Catherine answers as to how Rare Editions came to be and why she dropped making casual wear for ladies. The fact that her own wedding had male outfits from her own shop, gave her courage to do more research. Where she noticed a gap in the market for men’s bespoke suits and with Michael’s investment the business took off.

To date Rare Editions has provided bespoke suits for many couples as well corporate wear for companies like Oryx, CRDB Bank & Gibotel. They employ a full time staff of five including a part time staff of five. They pride themselves in pooling quality fabrics which they source from overseas giving a one year warranty for their suits, if the color fades. Just recently they provided training for five young tailors from Don Bosco School in Dar es Salaam pro-bono.

On the challenges they face they are concerned with marketing as the roll out of the ban of second hand clothes ‘mitumba’ in the country is still not effective. This means they’re goods face steep competition. They also requested support from the government of this administration whose call for ‘Tanzania of Industries’ could benefit to look at enabling more processing factories for the cloth fibers the country exports like cotton. This will cut production costs for small factories like their own that have to go overseas to find quality fabrics that are expensive.

Rare Editions Tanzania merchandise on sale 
at their shops

“It would help if we got tax cuts for the tools we have to import that aren’t available in the country. You can find you’ve bought a sewing machine for five thousand dollars, but when it passes through customs it becomes three times that!” Michael Mugabe shared his two cents as a  partner in this venture. You can find out more about them by visiting their Instagram page @rare.editions they as well export their goods. Their price is in the range of 80,000 Tshs to 400,000Tshs for retail outfits.

Catherine in her day job as a Doctor

Michael & Catherine's daughters 
finish their homework at the 
shop awaiting their parents to
go home.

This article was first published by the east african newspaper The EastAfrcanNewspaper - Rare Editions Caroline Uliwa