By Caroline Uliwa
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| Photo by Bernie Mshana |
It was the weekend before elections on an early Saturday morning; I together with twenty six other ladies in Dar es Salaam opted for a hike on the outskirts of the city. Perhaps it was to run from the hype & scandal of election season to be soothed by nature, welcoming a chance to mingle with strangers and sample patriotism more authentic than the one we saw on headlines.
Thankfully the roads were empty as I pressed on the gas to reach mlimani city mall on time. Parking my car at the far end, I negotiate with the guard at a nearby filling station to watch over my vehicle for the day, instead of doing the same at the mall’s parking lot.
I then walk inside the mall to see other ladies waiting, looking ready for a day outdoors with exercising tights, running shoes and the quintessential backpack. Soon the coaster bus we were waiting for pulls up, a little before 7am and we climb on board ready to experience what ‘Pugu Hills Eco Cultural Tourism-PHECT’ had in store for us.
Our destination was pugu kazimzumbwi forest reserve one of the oldest forests in the world, located in southeast Dar es Salaam. For many of us it was our first time to visit the area despite being residents of the city and sure enough we were in for a cultural shock
“I knew I loved nature since I went to boarding school in mountainous Lushoto, Tanga. I established PHECT after finding the job market difficult, I recall holding jobs prior that times just wouldn’t pay me or otherwise offer horrid working conditions. Plus the jobs were all indoors and I am more of a creative outdoorsy person. I wanted to employ other youths, work hands on with society.”-Sairis Lucia Bugeraha founder & coordinator PHECT (BA in Tourism & Cultural Heritage) shares her reason for establishing her company since 2018.
On this Saturday we had signed up for a ‘soul sister hike’ and as I found my seat in the middle of that coaster. I already knew this was going to be a unique experience as in the bus were women of varying backgrounds, a mix you wouldn’t normally find socializing in Tanzania. Think Bohra muslim women clad in Rida dresses, ladies in their late forties next to college students, young and older mothers alike all going for a hike!
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| The meal offered by PHECT it was delicious |
Conversations at first were synced to clicks one felt familiar with but by the end of the day; there was a vibe of union. It’s not a coincidence the place is called Pugu Hills for it is hi-lly! As we prepared to start the hike hilarious comments escaped lips “Ehe so this is what healthy people do…Shouldn’t we stretch…’Hivi eti' now we do this to relax?” Highlighting the inexperience most of us had with a ‘hike’. Sairis a small built lady with a cheerful attitude wearing appropriate hiking shoes led us on with her assistant Otilia, closing the line.
The trail begins on the border of the Kazimzimbwi forest with Pugu residential areas, inviting you in with its lush oxygen deposits of green and forest sounds that percussively drown the city’s bustling activities. This forest is among 66 patches of Tanzania’s coastal forests remaining with the natural vegetation of this area in the country and is threatened hence its 'reserve status'. It has over 103 coastal east African native plants including two that are endemic (found nowhere else on the planet); which is the ‘Mpugupugu’ & ‘Mnaki’ trees. It has over eighty small animals including endangered birds like the Sokoke Pipit Anthus, butterflies & other organisms, a bat cave, a huge deposit of kaolin and a native bamboo forest.
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| Ladies canoeing from this soul sister hike photo by Bernie Mshana |
We soon realized this hike was going to test our fitness levels, as Sairis’s strides were sturdy and vigilant. So immediately thin sweats that would later turn to pools on fabric visibly shone off our skin. Already the structure of the hike had us breaking out of our comfortable clicks to start casual conversations with other members. As our hearts picked up their pace the trail became an effective ice breaker, when it gave us its first challenge. A steep decline over five meters or so that I had to use both my hands and feet to descend, so I wouldn't topple over. Quickly a ritual developed, as each of us descended others would cheer us on with claps & encouraging words.
We came to a stop amidst this breathtaking bamboo forest inside it was an opening with benches for us to sit on. One of us started envisioning her wedding taking place here and sadly she wasn’t kidding. You'd understand her though as the place is so tranquil with bamboos tall enough to create a cathedral like experience. Soon the group broke in two with the first batch going for an even more challenging hike that would see them reach the ‘Msolo’ peak which is 277m above sea level.
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| Those who were brave and opted to hike up to Msolo peak. Photo by Bernie Mshana |
I opted for the second group that took a trip to the lake for some quality time with the surroundings. Here we had a chance to sit down by the lake; I even witnessed what looked like a golden Sokote pipit busy creating a nest. Behind me were two participants Violet & Furahini. They were chatting sharing their appreciation at seeing young females outspoken and invested in their own well being, present at this hike. They themselves were giving each other tips on how to stay strong in the workplace as females, with Violet being an architect & Furahini a doctor/medical researcher. They were the older members of the group but they sure didn’t look it, they were good role models to listen to. Soon we heard all about the hike to Msolo peak from the other group, turns out it involved leaning on a rope for support while climbing up, it must have been hectic as all of them were ready to eat a horse.
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| The birthday girls including Sairis wearing black first left |
After what seemed like forever and most of us having indulged in smooth canoeing. We were served lunch that was an authentic Swahili meal, with fried chicken, plantains, ‘kachumbari’, beef stew and spicy rice. Turns out it was also Sairis’s birthday on the day (24th Oct) so a cake popped out of nowhere and it was though the group had known each other for years as it was also another member's birthday.
In the bus as we were heading home we learned that among us were entrepreneurs, a caterer/pharmacist, marketing guru’s, employees of Dalberg the global consulting firm, farmers one of who works with the UN Food program, a copy writer, business women & more. As we cut through the traffic getting back to our city’s grind, I couldn’t help but feel hopeful as despite the country’s headlines displaying suppressive actions. Here were citizens choosing to break barriers and hear each other out in a peaceful manner.
Pugu Hills Cultural Eco Tourism also offers other packages including a trip into the Zaramo culture involving local cooking lessons, tradional ngoma dance lessons and other cultural activities. Sairis was happy to share that she’s happy local tourism is on the rise. She is also thankful to efforts from the Board of Tourism under the Ministry of Natural resources & tourism in Tanzania which has supplied her and businesses like hers with extensive support.
Photos not credited were graciously provided by the members cell phones. This article was first published in The East African newspaper with this link on its online publication pugu hike PHECT
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